Written by: Rashi Bindra
NYFW was a whirlwind of designers, studios and meeting really great people. The invite only industry event spans over 9 days between Spring studios and Pier 59 Chelsea Studios and is known as one of the big 4, along with London, Paris and Milan. NYFW has many smaller productions that happen within the same week, and they are considered to be part of fashion week as this is strategy brings the entire community of fashion together and upholds the high standards that makes fashion week what it is.
Having fashion collectives showcase during NYFW is a testament to how powerful this platform really is. Globally, designers showcase collections that have an international appeal yet impressive enough for local buyers. Fashion Palette New York Fashion Week being such collective; presented trends that are here to stay. Puff and balloon sleeves graced the runway alongside fitted skirts and sexy tailored suits by Torrance. Sonya Swim reminded us a women have curves, and a swimsuit can enhance it and not necessarily it has to be a skimpy two piece. House of Campbell highlighted the evolving role of women with its bold statement pieces complimented by a softer pairing and Dea The Label showcased denim and leather without putting a label on masculinity or femininity but instead there was a modern yet genderless feel to it. .
Torrance, Fashion Palette
Dea The Label, Fashion Palette
House of Campbell, Fashion Palette
The Label 2nd Madison Avenue, which was showcased in Indonesian Diversity NYFW SS2020 heavily influenced a rock’n roll vibe. Loud colors, bright prints, ruffles, even the music; transformed us into a time where fashion was about expression and having fun. Ayumi’s pieces would stand out at any special occasion as their fabrics and textiles were presented in gold, beige, blushes and lots of embroidery. A key element was having chiffon in tones of gold which gave fluidity to formal wear; a key trend in all evening wear by all designers.
2nd Madison Avenue
Photo Credit: Alessandro
2nd Madison Avenue
Photo Credit: Alessandro
Ayumi; Indonesian Diversity SS2020
Consumers will be seeing a lot of inspiration from the past eras in collections presented this season. The trend of a retro feel in the modern day world is very prominent but at the same time it’s not one specific time period. Designers are almost making this personal in what speaks to them yet at the same time being on point in dictating what the market should sell. There is movement and fluidity in all clothing. Feminine silhouettes, ball gown skirts, embellished bodice replaced overly tight fitting dresses. Men were given sharp clean looks and were away from the sneaker, cropped pant blaze trend that dominated the past few seasons.
Another trend was textiles and fabrics played a key role in the designers collection versus just colors and prints. Georgette, silk faille and leather took precedence in Hogan McLaughlin SS2020 “Solanaceae” fashion presentation produced by the iconic People’s Revolution. Inspired by the 1973 psychedelic animated feature, Belladonna of Sadness, the models walked in pieces that evoked a paper like quality of hand drawn animation; but wore doc martens giving each look a powerful finish.
Hogan McLaughlin SS2020
The #fashionischanging was everywhere during NYFW and there is a shift in even what designers want to sell to the consumers.It is almost like they are taking their power back in the industry. Values that are important in fashion as well as to the designer were evident. Such was seen in one of the most talked about shows by Fashion Designer Bibhu Mohapatra, whose inspiration came from the 1963 book “Nothing personal”. He portrayed diversity, identity of strength and courage through 39 looks which a focus on evening wear. Instead of anything being acceptable at a red carpet, the designer brings back the true art of glamour via pleated tulle, sheath dresses with artistic embroidery and puffed sleeves in palettes of blushes, mango and electric blues.
Bibhu Mahapatra SS2020
To recap, SS2020 is introducing the past to the present with color palettes of whites, blacks, blushes and blues as well as Fabrics being cotton, silk, georgette, lace, feathers, embroidery and full skirts. Designer Dennis Basso did just that with his collection; where the DB girl as she is known; is showcased in sporty wear, day wear and evening wear. his Throwback to the past was styles inspired by Amercian philanthropist Jayne Wrightsman and modern day artist Ashley Longshore who closed the show wearing a black silk sheath dress and couture organza evening coat by the designer which she hand painted; and for which the show received a standing ovation.
Dennis Basson and Ashely Longshore
To watch out for:
New designer Mariko Ichikawa is someone to look out for. Specializing in Japanese kimonos, Mariko takes an old traditional kimono which usually end up in flea markets and re- purpose them with a modern day silhouette. Feathers, bead work along with embroidery show how these can be paired with almost anything that someone would be wearing and thus keeping the heritage of Japanese culture intact in today’s world.